Cologne was a bit of a shock after pretty, ornate Salzburg. First impressions are of a huge, grubby city with boring utilitarian buildings and crowds of hot, bothered tourists. Our first view of the famous Dom Cathedral was overwhelmingly big and dirty with scaffolding everywhere.

But once we had a chance to check into our hotel, have a shower and a nap and then come back out for a proper look around, we discovered the Cologne that people rave about.

We found all manner of amazing churches, parks, restaurants, and a massive shopping district. My favourite part was the Roman museum and the Roman digs under one of the churches. We also loved the Dom Treasurehouse (no photos of that, they're not allowed).

Once I was able to get a proper look at the Dom, I didn't notice how grubby it is. I was too busy marvelling at the amazing detail in the statues that encrust it's exterior. It really has to be seen to be believed..